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Maíz Stories: How Heirloom Corn Is Reclaiming the Soul of Mexican Cuisine

Maíz Stories: How Heirloom Corn Is Reclaiming the Soul of Mexican Cuisine

Forget commodity yellow #2. Blue, red and cónico maize are back on the comal, carrying stories of soil, seed and survival.

1 · Biodiversity on the Brink

Mexico is home to 64 genetically distinct landraces of maize, from Olotillo to Chapalote. Yet FAO data show that over 75 % of tortillas nationwide still rely on industrial white hybrids. Crop homogeneity threatens flavor, culture and farmer livelihoods.

2 · The Nixtamal Renaissance

New-age molinos in CDMX, Oaxaca and L.A. now pilot same-day nixtamal: dry grain is alkaline cooked at dawn, stone-ground by noon, griddled by dinner. Flavor compounds—ferulic acid, anthocyanins—stay intact, while calcium uptake from slaked lime boosts tortilla nutrition by 54 %.

3 · A Transparent Chain from Milpa to Mesa

  • Seed Keepers » Communities in the Mixteca Alta guard 15-generation seed banks.
  • Direct Trade » Buyers like MAÍZajo pay 2–3× commodity rates, but sign multi-year contracts that shelter farmers from price shocks.
  • Fresh Logistics » Corn travels in breathable jute sacks, never siloed, maintaining 12 % humidity for optimal nixtamal.

4 · Chefs as Biodiversity Ambassadors

At Pujol (Michelin Guide 2023), a single tasting menu rotates through four corn varieties in one sitting. In New York, For All Things Good mills Guerrero chileno rojo corn on-site, selling punch-pink tetelas to Brooklynites who queue around the block.

5 · Rural Revival in Numbers

Direct-trade premiums add roughly 4 000 MXN per hectare to indigenous farmers’ annual income. A 2024 study by CIMMYT notes that communities engaged in heirloom supply chains report 18 % higher retention of young farmers compared to regions focused on hybrid maize.

6 · Masa 2.0: Bread, Beer & Biomaterials

Cervecería Monstruo de Agua ferments purple-corn ales; pastry labs turn blue-corn masa into sourdough crumb; biomaterial start-ups test husk-fiber packaging that biodegrades in 60 days.

The Espíritu Footnote

We celebrate craft that feeds both body and culture. Just as heirloom corn revives biodiversity, our hand-woven huaraches preserve artisan skills—keeping regional stories alive with every step.

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